North Wales

Llandudno
Home of the infamous Parisella's Cave (or the Cave of Justice as its otherwise known) and the Pillbox, further round Marine Drive.

Llanberis Pass
Classic test-pieces abound.

Trwyn Talfarach
Similar to Porth Ysgo in terms of rock quality and outlook but generally much worse landings! There are obviously some decent landings around but as for the Ysgo, best appreciated with a good team and plenty of foam. Lots that is non-tidal although a big sea can dampen things whilst making it very atmospheric! Comprehensive topos, including parking and approach info are available via the North Wales Bouldering website.

Overview

Area One

Areas Two and Three

Area Four

Wal Yr Olygfa - is situated at the top of the final descent and well worth a visit if only to do amazing Crib Yr Olygfa!

Fatneck's Recommended Problems (not that I have done them all!)

Billy Boy Arete, Cream Seam, My Big Pogo, Ministry For Silly Hats, Phobia of Fishy Smells, The Black Pearl, The Grinner, Bardsey Blues!

Porth Ysgo
Beautiful, burly, ballsy bouldering on bullet-hard brilliant, black gabbro blocs...

Parking

There are two parking spots. The main one is at the Y-shaped junction of the main road at the top of the track - free. Second one is at the farm just down the road - honesty box. Both have good paths that lead to the final (harrowing when wet) decent to the bouldering.

Accommodation

As with parking there are options...


 * Tanrallt (Abersoch). Basic but good location and always warm.
 * Bryn yr Eryr and Tal Eryr A bit further away but great if there's loads of you.
 * Aberdaron Farm Bunkhouse Looks good but not been.
 * Awelon Holiday Cottage (Adam Long's recommendation).

Guidebooks

Si Panton's North Wales Bouldering covers the area in some detail. However it is out of print and quite out of date due to lots of development. Ysgo is not known as "the crag that keeps on giving" for nothing... You can keep abreast of development at North Wales Bouldering. There have been rumours of a Lleyn Bouldering Guide and also a new version of the North Wales Bouldering guide is in the pipeline. It is also covered in Niall Grimes Boulder Britain

Fatneck's Recommended Problems (off the top of my head list...)


 * Ysgo Flange (both versions)
 * Simon's Arete
 * The Shield
 * Truth
 * The Uncle (highball)
 * Really Cool Toys and RH version
 * Higginson Scar
 * Jones Eliminate
 * Everything on the Van Guff block
 * Incredible Shaking Man
 * SS to Uncle Pete's Arete (or Perrins Crack? Either way the arete to the right of ISM is quality)
 * Beach Boy Arete
 * Foam Party
 * Closer
 * The Ramp
 * Brian Spray (one day I will finally get this...)
 * Ysgo Crack (took me 10+ visits to get on this but finally did it on my stag do and it's brill!)
 * Floppy's Arete
 * Johnny's Slab
 * Ugly Women
 * Howling Hound
 * Fast Cars
 * Mutant Child
 * Popcorn Party
 * Jawbreaker
 * The Ysgo Challenge!

Then in the next bay you HAVE to at least have a look at Made In Heaven. Fantastic looking problem on an amazing piece of rock. Sadly, I've never been there when it's dry...

Other/Miscellaneous

Take lots of pads! The landings (with a few exceptions) are generally bad to non-existent and I've always climbed better with a team of people and plenty of pads/spotters. That's not to say you can't go by yourself and have a great day! You just need to choose your problems carefully, drop a grade or two and stay positive. It's a long crawl...

If you like a bit of fishing, some fantastic sport can be had on lures with bass and big wrasse always a possibility along with mackerel etc in summer. The headland to the left (looking out) is Talfarach and home to another host of quality problems (another thread needed?) but is also a fairly top secret fishing mark for Tope (summer) and big Huss and Congers (all year round) as well as BIG pollock....

The actual beach of Porth Ysgo also contains some handy blocs and along with it's nice sandy beach, makes an ideal destination for a family trip if you're on the Lleyn. Just be aware of Weever Fish. I've had two encounters with these spiny critters and despite not being particularly damaging their venom is painful and will (at least) leave you unable to get a climbing shoe on!

Weather
Highly variable, it can be pissing it down in the hills and fine on the coast.

Guides
The most comprehensive guide is North Wales Bouldering, supplemented by Parisella's Cave Guidebook

Links
North Wales Bouldering

Stone Circles article on Porth Ysgo by Si Panton

Skinny Dog Bouldering Blog (Porth Ysgo)

Fatnecks Porth Ysgo Beta Thread on UKB

North Wales Limestone (predominantly routes, of which most are sports).