Overview[]
Areas[]
Sassofortino[]
Brilliant rock, perhaps the best in Italy. There is a small topo in an old Italian guidebook about climbing in Tuscany and Elba Island. Getting to the boulders is easy, (see here for details. Sassofortino was a volcano, there's a red/white marked path that makes the tour of half of its base and then crosses the top to the other side. The boulders are spread along this path or are visible from it.
Val di Mello[]
Well developed granite area, in a beautiful setting. Useful info here
Valmasino[]
More hard problems than Val di Mello, with lots of potential on the other side of the valley. Some think better than Val di Mello.
Ceriola[]
Very beautiful, packed with hard stuff, but rock quality on average is not perfect.
Amiata range[]
Several nice small areas.
Meschia / Interprete[]
Two nearby areas in the south, comprising amazing sandstone and a wonderful setting: Meschia is more like your backyard garden, Interprete is a savage wood.
Regarding access issues - "old meschia", the first discovered, was closed years ago due to climbers acting disrespectfully, spoiling the wood whicht the owner of the place lives on. Do not believe anyone who may tell you that it's fine to climb there, pretending the have some access right or know the owner. However, "new meschia" is fine. It's also on private ground, but the owner actually wants climbers, because he has a house to rent just five minutes from the boulders: it's big, with 10-12 sleeping places, big kitchen, fireplace, and the owner often brings ostrich eggs.
Rocca Del Toro[]
Another southern area, near Potenza. Allegedly it's the dog's bollocks.
Varazze[]
Not one of the better areas in Italy. Many of the crimps are horrendous and a lot of the lines are eliminatey so its not always obvious what to climb apart from the obvious arete or groove features. There is also plenty of evidence of chipping.
Gallura (Sardinia)[]
Two granite areas in Gallura, Arzachena and Monte Pulchiana, have been developed after a La Sportiva event in 2013.
Sardinia[]
This lovely island has plenty of bouldering as well as the well developed sports climbing venues that are to be found along the coastal cliffs and in the mountains and gorges. There are various venues around the island and plenty of scope for discovery and exploration. A guide to the granite bouldering in the North East of the island around Gallura has been produced by La Sportiva (Italian Version).
Weather[]
Guides[]
Ibloc Northern Italy Bouldering
La Sportiva Sardinia Gallura Guide